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Chocolate Sausage and the Finish of the Rat King

Creamy, chocolatey logs constituted of cookies, cocoa, and butter had been on the desk in virtually each Soviet household. Regardless of their overseas origins, they grew to become one of the vital widespread home made desserts. They usually grew to become a type of image of socialism — each its heyday and its decline.

“Do you keep in mind after we visited Aunt Valya in Kyiv in 1975?” Vladimir Sorokin wrote in certainly one of his tales. “She made a chocolate sausage only for us. I ate it for the primary time in my life — you’d already had it earlier than. I liked it! Aunt Valya made it so it regarded precisely like a Braunschweiger sausage. The walnuts regarded identical to bits of lard. She made it within the night, wrapped it in parchment, and put it within the fridge in a single day. And within the morning after we had been having breakfast on the balcony, she took the Sausage out and unwrapped it and began slicing it. You mentioned the crunch made you very completely satisfied. It wasn’t the chocolate that crunched, it was the lard-nuts!”

The idea of this sausage is, in fact, a lot older. In Southern Italy, in Campania, this dish is known as sanguinaccio al cioccolato. In Portugal it’s chocolate salami. In Romania, it is biscuit salami. It doesn’t matter what it is known as and the place it is made, it appears to be like identical to a sausage.

It was in all probability its “sausage” look that made this dessert so fashionable within the USSR Everybody is aware of that the sausage — be it a spherical of kielbasa, a stick of salami or a log of sandwich meat — was sacred to the Soviet citizen. It was a failsafe indicator of an individual’s social standing. A house-made sausage with garlic was within the fridge of a collective farm employee. Low-cost liverwurst was for the proletarian. “Physician’s” sausage meant a Muscovite, the soul despatched by the residents of close by cities “What’s lengthy and inexperienced and smells like sausage?” Even a toddler within the Soviet Union knew the reply to this riddle. It was, in fact, a commuter practice. Folks got here within the morning, stood in line all day, and went dwelling with their sausage. And final however definitely not least was imported salami—eaten by the underground entrepreneur, state commerce employees, and social gathering officers.

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Nevertheless unusual it might sound, this dish turned out to be the proper culinary answer to the fixed downside of deficits. It mixed two human desires: the abundance of fine chocolate and the supply of sausage. And if chocolate was nonetheless kind of first rate, sausage was already dreadful. Even immediately, many individuals are satisfied that if sausage had been edible and obtainable within the USSR, the phrase “socialism” would have continued to ring out for a very long time, from Berlin to Vladivostok. At this time Russian propaganda assures us that “the best tragedy of the twentieth century” — the collapse of the USSR — was the results of an imperialist plot. However we, the individuals who lived by that period, know that socialism collapsed partly as a result of there was no sausage.

It grew to become the image of the practically common meals deficit that nearly led to a famine on the finish of the Nineteen Eighties. The silly, ideological coverage of the authorities virtually introduced it on. Can these occasions be repeated immediately? In spite of everything, allow us to be sincere, the extent of madness of the present Russian authorities has damaged all data.

However no, it will possibly’t be repeated—for one easy motive. Advances within the meals trade allow us to produce sausage with out meat and chocolate with out chocolate. If solely Gorbachev had mastered this artwork!

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

So, as we word the a centesimal anniversary of the founding of the Soviet Union this week, we will say with certainty that sausage won’t be an element within the Russian Revolution this time.

Quite the opposite, nearly all of Russians are completely satisfied to see indicators that we’re returning to our “brilliant” previous. “We did not reside the great life then, so there is no motive to begin now” is the motto of immediately’s odd citizen of the nation. It is also the motto that Vladimir Putin’s officers and propagandists fervently partner as they watch the folks by the home windows of their luxurious Mercedes Maybachs and Bentleys.

Nevertheless, as we noticed with Sorokin, the sausage (even chocolate sausage) can come from Kyiv. And plenty of youngsters there’ll rejoice on the New 12 months and obtain candy presents, regardless of the shelling and explosions. You possibly can’t clarify the cruelty of battle to children. Solely fairy tales can provide them some concept of ​​betrayal and heroism.

As we wrap chocolate sausages in coloured paper, we additionally make needs for our grandchildren. They’ve already seen the cartoon about Little Pink Using Hood. They usually already know that the ability of the evil Rat King within the Nutcracker Suite just isn’t everlasting. Regardless of how robust he appears, in the long run he’ll disappear in a puff of mud and not using a hint.

Who is aware of? Perhaps the chocolate sausage, together with our hopes, will play the position of a small miracle in Russian historical past. Let’s give it a strive, lets?

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Chocolate Sausage


  • 350 g (3/4 lb or 1 ¼ c) sugar cookies (Nila wafers, Petit Beurre, Lorna Doone, Marie)
  • 80 g (2.8 oz or ¾ c) walnuts (frivolously toasted)
  • 4 Tbsp milk or 10% cream
  • 150 g (3/4 c) effective sugar
  • 250 g (2 sticks and a couple of Tbsp) butter at room temperature
  • 4 Tbsp cocoa powder
  • 1 Tbsp rum or cognac


  • Break a 3rd of the cookies into about half-centimeter (1/4 inch) items. Chop the nuts with a knife into equally sized items.
  • Put the remaining cookies in a meals bag and crush into crumbs.
  • Pour milk or cream right into a saucepan, placed on a low flame and warmth, however do not convey to a boil.
  • Take away from the warmth, add the butter, sugar and cocoa and stir till the sugar dissolves fully. The combination will change into shiny.
  • Add the cookie crumbs, stir with a spatula, then add the cookie items, nuts, rum or cognac. Stir with a spatula till a “dough” is fashioned. Will probably be somewhat sticky in your arms however will maintain its form nicely. If vital, you possibly can add some extra cookies (crumbs) or pour somewhat cream or milk to get the fitting consistency.
  • Switch the mass to baking paper or cling movie and type a dense “sausage” log or a number of small bars.
  • Wrap the sausage in a thick towel (serviette) and place within the fridge in a single day. Verify a number of occasions to verify it’s cylindrical; if it flattens out, roll it in the fitting form. (Because the sausage is kind of gentle at first it may not maintain its form nicely.)
  • To serve, take out the sausage about 5-7 minutes forward of time. Slice with a pointy knife with a skinny, broad blade, urgent evenly from prime to backside.

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

Pavel and Olga Syutkin

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