Skip to content

Methods to make the right chocolate roulade – recipe | meals

Yo attempt to embark on these columns with an open thoughts: to interact the spirit of strict scientific neutrality in pursuit of culinary perfection. But, this week, as I rolled roulade after roulade, whipped cream gently spilling on to the counter in entrance of me, I noticed that I used to be not solely striving in the direction of perfection, however making an attempt to recreate a really particular, decades-old sensory reminiscence. The primary point out of chocolate roulade within the British Newspaper Archive is available in 1976, however references peak within the late Nineteen Nineties, when in addition they appeared to pop up at each big day I attended as a grasping teenager, typically accompanied by an equally modish fruit coulis.

Strictly talking, in fact, a roulade merely refers to something rolled – beef olives are roulades, as are involtini and that French cream cheese flavored with herbs and garlic – however these roulades have been all the time each candy and wealthy sufficient to react badly with the ill- Suggested glasses of wine taken beforehand. They have been additionally so scrumptious that we did not care. However even when you do not have the identical fond recollections, a roulade has a number of issues to advocate it as a festive dessert: it is best made forward of time, it is typically gluten-free and it appears nice. So embrace the retro this Christmas – it is a traditional for a purpose.

Harry Eastwood's chocolate roulade.
‘Festive nuttiness’ … Harry Eastwood’s chocolate roulade. Thumbnails by Felicity.

The cake

As if to bolster the old-school nature of the duty, recipes advisable to me by schoolfriends’ moms embrace such all-time greats as Delia Smith, Woman Claire Macdonald, Mary Berry, the late Joyce Molyneux and the Leiths Baking Bible, all of which I go on to you within the spirit of seasonal generosity.

Chantal Coady, founding father of Rococo Sweets, explains in her 2003 ebook Actual Chocolate that as, “for some purpose, I appear to be surrounded by individuals with particular dietary necessities”, her roulade is each gluten- and dairy-free, utilizing floor almonds as a substitute of flour. In actual fact, it seems that each one the recipes I strive are gluten-free: Berry and Leiths omit flour completely, whereas Harry Eastwood’s model, in his ebook Pink Velvet Chocolate Heartache, makes use of rice flour and – in line with the healthful baking theme of her ebook – grated candy potato for moisture. Eastwood’s is the lightest, stuffed with taste however versatile sufficient to roll up with out a single crack, and Coady’s is the densest and richest, with a barely grainy, nutty sweetness that works nicely with the chocolate. Until you want that excellent spiral roll, nevertheless, I might advocate protecting issues easy by leaving out the flour component altogether; Berry’s recipe wins specific plaudits for its melt-in-the-mouth texture, whereas a few of my testers appreciated the delicate espresso notes within the Leiths roulade.

'A fudgy result': Nat Paull's roulade.
‘A fudgy consequence’: Nat Paull’s roulade.

That mentioned, none of those recipes fairly hits the suitable notes for me – I keep in mind the roulades of yore having a crisp, sugary shell and a barely gooey inside, like a rolled meringue, whereas these are all extra just like the swiss rolls one may nicely be tempted to cowl with chocolate icing and embellish like a charmingly rustic log. I spend a while fruitlessly making an attempt to determine the technical distinction between a swiss roll and a roulade (and conclude {that a} swiss roll is solely a kind of roulade), earlier than slicing to the chase and tackling a recipe by Melbourne baker Nat Paull that appears to suit the invoice. It is just like Berry and Leiths, in that it makes use of whipped egg whites flavored with sugar and chocolate, however as a substitute of folding within the yolks as nicely, to create a fudgy consequence, Paull leaves it as a meringue, making it sweeter, however just about fats -free. Este is the roulade I have been trying to find, with a crunchy, sugary outer layer that makes a stunning distinction to the wealthy, bland creaminess of the filling, and each tempered by the bitterness of the chocolate. Bullseye.

Word that making such a roulade is an effective strategy to unencumber egg yolks for custard, which is all the time welcome, however in case you’d favor to not be caught with leftover yolks, you should purchase egg whites in cartons at bigger supermarkets.

Leiths' roulade has subtle coffee notes.
Leiths’ roulade has delicate espresso notes.

the chocolate

Each Berry and Leiths use melted chocolate of their batters, whereas Eastwood and Coady go for cocoa powder (Molyneaux writes in The Carved Angel Cookery E-book that, “a few years in the past, I used melted chocolate within the sponge combination for the chocolate roulade and excellent it was, too. However I now use cocoa as a substitute, which I feel is even higher, giving it a bittersweet style”. In the event you’re making a sponge model, then melted chocolate will make it richer, as a result of it provides fats in addition to However for the meringue model, which I am going for, the cocoa butter would be the kiss of demise, as a result of that fats will pop the air bubbles you’ve got whipped into the egg whites, and go away you with a flat, chewy finish consequence.On the recommendation of Anna Higham, pastry chef and writer of The Final Chew, although, I can not resist including a number of chocolate chips as nicely, in addition to some blended spice.Nicely, it’s Christmas, in spite of everything.

'A melt-in-the-mouth texture': Mary Berry's roulade.
‘A melt-in-the-mouth texture’: Mary Berry’s roulade.

The filling

The best choice is Berry’s whipped cream, although my testers favor Leiths’ barely sweetened model. Take into account the cream a clean canvas, nevertheless – I strive whisking some ginger wine into one batch (the syrup from jars of ginger would additionally work nicely, as would rum, whiskey or brandy) and orange zest into one other. Alternatively, double down on the chocolate component with Molyneux’s extraordinarily wealthy chocolate mousse, or Coady’s intense (and dairy-free) water ganache, which will also be flavored with tea, espresso or certainly “cardamom, orange flower water, a drop of important oil or some bits of fruit or some booze”.

I just like the distinction between the softness of the cream and the sugariness of the meringue, nevertheless, so I’ve stored my filling fairly plain, except the chestnut puree utilized by Eastwood, which provides a festive nuttiness with out including an excessive amount of sweetness , and Paull’s fruit, which provides a welcome sharpness and a splash of color. The retailers are stuffed with pretty jarred fruit presently of yr, although defrosted berries would additionally work a deal with. Pleased Christmas!

Good Chocolate Roulade

preparation 10 minutes
cooking 1hr
chill 2hr+
serves 8-10

for the meringue
50g cocoa powderplus further for dusting
1 tsp blended spice (non-compulsory)
50g darkish chocolate or chocolate chips (non-compulsory)
180g egg whites (ie, from 5 giant eggs or 6 small ones)
a pinch of salt
¼ tsp cream of tartare
or ½ tsp impartial vinegar or lemon juice
300g caster sugar

for the filling
250ml double cream
200g sweetened chestnut puree
(or use plain puree with icing sugar crushed in to style)
A handful of fruit of your selection – I used cherries in brandy

Warmth the oven to 160C (140C fan)/325F/fuel 3, and line a shallow, roughly 22cm x 30cm oven tray with greaseproof paper.

Bowls of cocoa, egg whites, choc chips

Sift the cocoa and blended spice, if utilizing, right into a bowl and put aside. Chop the chocolate into chips, if crucial.

Put the egg whites in a large bowl or food mixer with the salt and cream of tartar, whisk to soft peaks, then gradually whisk in the sugar until the meringue mix is ​​thick and glossy and falls in ribbons off the whisk.

Put the egg whites in a big bowl or meals mixer with the salt and cream of tartar, whisk to smooth peaks, then regularly whisk within the sugar till the meringue combine is ​​thick and shiny and falls in ribbons off the whisk.

Add the cocoa and most of the chocolate chips, then fold in until well combined and, taking care not to knock out too much air.

Add the cocoa and a lot of the chocolate chips, then fold in till nicely mixed, taking care to not knock out an excessive amount of air.

Spoon the meringue on to the lined tray in a single layer and gently smooth the top, to level it out, while keeping in as much air as possible.

Spoon the meringue on to the lined tray in a single layer and gently easy the highest, to stage it out, whereas protecting in as a lot air as attainable.

Scatter the remaining chocolate all over the top, then bake for about 30-40 minutes, until the meringue is dry to the touch on top but still squidgy beneath.  Remove and leave to cool on the tray.

Scatter the remaining chocolate all around the prime, then bake for 30-40 minutes, till the meringue is dry to the contact on prime however nonetheless squidgy beneath. Take away and go away to chill on the tray.

As soon as the meringue is cool, begin the filling.

Beat the cream until it's billowing and soft, then fold in the chestnut puree and taste – it shouldn't be too sweet, because it will be paired with the meringue, but adjust if need be.

Beat the cream till it is billowing and smooth, then fold within the chestnut puree and style – it should not be too candy, as a result of it will likely be paired with the meringue, however modify if want be.

Put a big sheet of clingfilm (you may additionally use greaseproof paper or a tea towel, however I discover that clingfilm is best right here) on a piece floor and mud throughout with cocoa powder.

Put a large sheet of clingfilm (you could also use greaseproof paper or a tea towel, but I find that clingfilm is easiest here) on a work surface and dust all over with cocoa powder.  Carefully turn the meringue out on to it, with the long sides parallel to the long sides of the clingfilm, then turn it around so that one of the short sides is facing you.  Score a shallow cut across the width of the meringue, about 2cm away from the end closest to you.

Rigorously flip the meringue out on to it, with the lengthy sides parallel to the lengthy sides of the clingfilm, then flip it round in order that one of many brief sides is dealing with you. Rating a shallow reduce throughout the width of the meringue, about 2cm away from the tip closest to you.

Put a large sheet of clingfilm on a work surface and dust all over with cocoa powder.  Carefully turn the meringue out on to it, with the long sides parallel to the long sides of the clingfilm, then turn it around so that one of the short sides is facing you.  Spread the cream all over the top of the meringue.

Unfold the cream all around the prime of the meringue, then scatter over the fruit, if utilizing, and put a line of fruit roughly the place you scored the reduce: this would be the middle of the roulade later.

Scatter over the fruit, if using, and put a line of fruit where the center will be.  Using the clingfilm to help you, tuck the closest end of the meringue over the line of fruit, then roll the whole thing up as tightly as possible, finishing with the seam underneath.  The roulade should be completely encased in clingfilm, and can now be refrigerated until ready to serve, and ideally for at least two hours.

Utilizing the clingfilm that will help you, tuck the closest finish of the meringue over the road of fruit, then roll the entire thing up as tightly as attainable, ending with the seam beneath. The roulade ought to be fully encased in clingfilm, and might now be refrigerated till able to serve, and ideally for at the least two hours.

Transfer the roulade seam side down on to a platter, unwrap carefully, dust with more cocoa powder and serve.

Switch the roulade seam aspect down on to a platter, unwrap rigorously, mud with extra cocoa powder and serve.

  • Does this roulade carry again glad recollections of the final century, or have you ever by no means stopped making it? Are you workforce swiss roll or workforce meringue, and what are your favourite taste mixtures?

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *